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- Notes:
- P. 272 "Mar Gabriel is a generous and noble, but still wild young man. His confinement, when he commenced learning English with us, soon proved intolerable to his restless spirit." For this portrait, Mar Gabrial wears a dark aba (Vogelsang-Eastwood, p. 11) over a bright blue caba (Shoberl 1845, p. 45) or qaba (Vogelsang-Eastwood, p. 10) trimmed in red and tied with a patterned girdle. His two toned blue and red headgear is loose, hanging slightly to one side of his head and has a tassel at the tip of the crown.
- Date Created:
- 1843-01-01T00:00:00Z
- Data Provider:
- Western Michigan University. Libraries
- Collection:
- Costume History Collection
- Notes:
- P. 34 "The second officer is the Ichic-Agasee, whom Morier calls the master of ceremonies: he superintends the porters, ushers, door-keepers, and other officers of that class belonging to the palace. Before him is borne a gold stick covered with precious stones, which is the mark of his dignity: and when the king quits his seraglio, he takes it in this hand, standing at some distance of his majesty's person, and endeavoring to anticipate his commands from his looks." P. 62-63 "This is not the only occasion on which the khilauts is conferred: it is given by the king, in token of his approbation or favor, to such of his own subjects as are deemed deserving of the honour, and to ambassadors or other foreigners who visit his court. it's quality, and the number of articles of which it is composed, differ with the rank and favor of the receiver. A common khilauts consists of a caba or coat; a kemerbund, or zone; a gouchpeesh, or shawl for the head: when it is intended to be more distinguishing, a sword or a dagger is added. To persons of distinction rich furs are given, such as a catabee or a coordee; but when the khilauts is complete..."
- Date Created:
- 1845-01-01T00:00:00Z
- Data Provider:
- Western Michigan University. Libraries
- Collection:
- Costume History Collection
- Notes:
- P. 5 "This roughness of the country, added to the ferocity of the people, renders portions of it well nigh inaccessible, and, consequently, little known to civilized nations. The accompanying drawing very well represents the common appearance of the Koordish warrior." The warrior on horseback is well armed with a spear, shield, and sword. He wears the traditional shalwar, tunic, caba (Shoberl 1845, p. 34) or qaba (Vogalsang-Eastwoodand p. 10), and gouchpeesh (Shoberl pa. 68) as a turban. He wears a beard and mustache.
- Date Created:
- 1843-01-01T00:00:00Z
- Data Provider:
- Western Michigan University. Libraries
- Collection:
- Costume History Collection
- Notes:
- P. 283 "The accompanying drawing gives a good idea of the appearance of Persian ladies at home and we may at least presume that the Princess was as fair as the representation. Among the higher classes, the ladies devote a large portion of their time to the toilet. Inspection of the drawing will remind the readers that painting and tight-lacing are not confined to the Western continent. Persian ladies color their eyebrows black the hair being combed down upon the forehead and cut short about them the nails both of their fingers and toes auburn, and their cheeks red." This image of a Persian woman shows her wearing the headcloth known as the charqat (Vogelsang-Eastwood, p. 16). What appears to be a skirt is a very full cut pair of trousers or zeer-djameh (Shoberl 1845, p. 110-111).
- Date Created:
- 1843-01-01T00:00:00Z
- Data Provider:
- Western Michigan University. Libraries
- Collection:
- Costume History Collection
- Notes:
- P. 159-160 "The Armenians bind their heads with silk handkerchiefs of various colours, the ends falling loose down the back; and under this sort of head-mantle they wear another kerchief of white linen, which passes behind the ears over the chin and hangs down the breast. When they go out, this piece of drapery is occasionally drawn up over the mouth, leaving nothing of the face to be seen but the eyes and the too often floridly shining."
- Date Created:
- 1845-01-01T00:00:00Z
- Data Provider:
- Western Michigan University. Libraries
- Collection:
- Costume History Collection
- Notes:
- P. 235 "During the services at Geog-tapá, Mar Elias, the aged bishop resident in that village, came in. He saluted us in English, shaking hands with us-which orientals never do among themselves-and repeating to each of us, good morning." The bishop is wearing the full khilauts (Shoberl 1845, p. 47), his gray robe trimmed in teal bands, his green tunic is decorated with buttons at the neck opening. His turban is large and made of patterned fabrics. He wears the full beard and mustache typical to men of this region.
- Date Created:
- 1843-01-01T00:00:00Z
- Data Provider:
- Western Michigan University. Libraries
- Collection:
- Costume History Collection
- Notes:
- P. 61 "The uniform of this corps is red, and something like the fashion of the British regimentals about twenty years ago. They wear a bright brass cap of a conical shape, with a bunch of cock's feathers stuck in the pointed top."
- Date Created:
- 1845-01-01T00:00:00Z
- Data Provider:
- Western Michigan University. Libraries
- Collection:
- Costume History Collection
- Notes:
- Colored lithograph shows a kneeling government official wearing a red tunic orb caba over a white shirt called a pirahan (Vogelsang-Eastwood, p. 9); a cummerbund or kamarband (Vogelsang-Eastwood, p. 11) with a dagger; a full beard and neck length hair; and a hat called kolah namadi (Vogelsang-Eastwood, p. 12) with a tassel at the tip. Shoberl refers to the pirahan as the peerahun (1845, p. 123)
- Date Created:
- 1843-01-01T00:00:00Z
- Data Provider:
- Western Michigan University. Libraries
- Collection:
- Costume History Collection
- Notes:
- P. 335 "Nestorian girls, and women to the age of middle life, are very fond of wearing jewels, beads, pieces of silver money -base coin silver-washed, and other rude trinkets, on their heads, about their persons, and even in their noses. The accompanying drawing is intended to represent a Nestorian girl thus ornamented. The whole paraphernalia, including all those mentioned and the girdles and rings about the wrists and ancles [sic], sometimes amount to the enormous weight of ten or twelve pounds." This young woman is wearing trousers, a knee-length tunic, a long ornamented jacket cinched in the waist with a belt. Her headdress is comprised of a small scull cap with rows and rows of coins around the rim, and coins on chains from ear to ear under her chin. She wears more than one necklace.
- Date Created:
- 1843-01-01T00:00:00Z
- Data Provider:
- Western Michigan University. Libraries
- Collection:
- Costume History Collection
- Notes:
- P. 375 "Several new orders have just reached our governor, from the king. Some of them are the following; viz, Every landholders must set out a thousand young trees; no beggars may be tolerated, except the lame, the sick and the blind; every man who shall appear in the garb of a Dervish must be compelled to become a soldier; no person may talk about being king-of his doing this or that-but each must occupy himself with his own business...The propriety of the other orders is readily obvious to one who witnesses the hosts of beggars that swarm in the streets of these Eastern countries, and especially the dervishes, who are as numerous and profligate in Persia as the Friars and Capuchins and other vagrant monks in Spain and Italy. These disgusting vagabonds wear long, bushy hair, dangling down upon their shoulders,-carry a fantastic knotty club in the hand-sometimes a hatchet in the girdle-and half of a huge cocoa-nut shell, furnished with a cord as a handle, upon the arm in which to receive charity." This image of a dervish shows him wearing a long, belted tunic; cloak over one shoulder; a conical hat with an ornament dangling off the tip; an alms dish; and a walking stick.
- Date Created:
- 1843-01-01T00:00:00Z
- Data Provider:
- Western Michigan University. Libraries
- Collection:
- Costume History Collection